The evolution of watches can be traced back to the 15th century.
The increase in European seagoing navigation and mapping increased the demand for a portable timepiece because the only way a ship could measure its longitude, was by comparing the midday time of the local longitude to that of a European meridian (usually Paris or Greenwich) using the time kept on a shipboard clock.
The first reasonably accurate mechanical clocks measured time with simple weighted pendulums. But they were unworkable when irregular movements of the fulcrum occur whether at sea or in watches.
The later development of reliable springs and escapement mechanisms allowed clockmakers to compress a timekeeping device into a small, portable compartment. This technology laid the road for the first pocket watch, created by Peter Henlein in 1524.
At the time, watches only had an hour hand—a minute hand would have been useless because of the inaccuracy of the watch mechanism.
In 1868, Patek Philippe invented the first wristwatch, but only as a “lady’s bracelet watch”, intended as jewelry. It quickly became the fashion to wear a wristwatch. For the next half century, wristwatch was perceived as a women-only fashion accessory.
It wasn’t till 1904 when the first known design for a man’s wristwatch was produced by French jewel house, Cartier. Louis Cartier was approached by aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont to make him a watch, so that he could have both hands free for his flying exploits. What Cartier created was to become the blueprint for watches from that day forward - designed for the left wrist, stem to the right, horns for attaching the strap to the watch, and a clasp. Because of Santos-Dumont’s international popularity, the trend for men’s wristwatches was taking root.
Then came World War I. Officers and soldiers were quick to recognize the advantage of a wristwatch on the wrist, which didn’t have to be pulled out of the pocket first. Army contractors manufactured watches en masse, for both infantry and pilots. Wristwatches’ popularity among men started spreading, like wild fire.
From 1913 onwards, more and more watches started to be developed in all shapes and styles. From the “gondola” watch of Patek Phillipe to Louis Cartiers’ “Tank” - inspired by the shape of English armored cars of the time. Many features found in modern watches now - the lunar phases, month and day – were being invented.
The 1920s would see many more important wristwatch innovations. Heuer (now TAG Heuer) began making a reputation for precision in timing particularly aviation and auto racing. They would, for the first time, combine a stopwatch and wristwatch utilizing the same dial in a single casing; John Harwood developed a self-winding mechanism he patented in 1923; though a relative new-comer to the watchmaking industry, Rolex began marketing a water-resistant watch, the Oyster, in 1926; Tissot was responsible for an anti-magnetic design in 1929; And durable plastic crystals began replacing the more fragile glass in many of the manufacturer’s models.
These early watches of the 1910s to 1930s laid the foundation of the makes of watches that we see and wear today.
While the first watches were still being wound, some innovations developed in relation to the mechanics. The automatic watch emerged, which no longer had to be wound manually, but was wound automatically through the movement of the clock. Later, at the end of the 20’s, the quartz watch was invented.
In the 1970’s, a new breed of watch emerged from Japan. The new watch was no longer set on a mechanical basis, but on a computerized control. It no longer just showed the time but now also knew the date, the day of the week, and even whether a leap year was involved.
Since then, with clocks installed in the cars, on the cell phones and other handheld devices, wristwatch is no longer the primary time teller. While some argue if watches are becoming obsolete, wristwatches have already taken the roles as collectibles and important fashion accessories – just like what they used to be when it all started, but only with the best of timing technologies.
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